Introducing the easiest, most accurate way to de-tweak your touring car!
No more getting down on your knees at your pit seeing which wheel picks up first, with our weighted tweak wheels, you can easily identify which wheel is lifting earlier! With offset weights, the tweak wheels will spin as soon as the earlier lifting corner comes off the ground, making it extremely easy to accurately identify what tweak adjustment needs to be made to de-tweak the car.
The pair of Weighted Tweak wheels features ABEC 7 Bearings, Black 7075 Knurled thumb nuts, Brass CNC Machined Weight and Gold Plated Steel Countersunk Screw in the 3mm 3K Carbon Fibre Wheel.
The other "A Type" pair of wheels features all the same fit-out, minus the need for the weight! These wheels are purely made to keep the car stable while lifting the opposite end, but also look great with the matching nuts!
The nuts are permanently installed in the bearings, which are a tight press fit into the carbon wheels. As a complete assembly, you will never lose anything, as each wheel, nut and bearing assembly is fixed together.
These work great on both EP and GP 1/10th Touring Cars with a standard 4mm axle.
Check out the video below for a demonstration!
- Lightweight and easy to transport, install, and remove
- Ensures incredibly accuracy
- No need to move to identify which wheel is lifting first, can be observed from normal pit sitting position
- Made from High Quality 7075 Alloy, Brass, and 3K Carbon Fibre
- CNC Machined components with perfect tolerances
Directions for successfully de-tweaking your chassis
- It's very important to ensure your chassis is flat, and droop is set prior to doing this process!
- Install the wheels with matching pairs on one end. If the weighted wheels are at the front, you'll be adjusting tweak with the rear collars/screws. If the weighted wheels are at the back then you'll be adjusting tweak with the front collars/screws.
- Ensure the weighted tweak wheels weights are parallel to the ground, with the logo horizontal.
- Press down on both ends of the car to settle the suspension and then lift the end with the weighted tweak wheels up slowly until one of the wheels starts to rotate, note which wheel it was.
- The wheel that came off early is the side that the collar needs to be unscrewed towards the top of the shock body on the other end of the car. Adjust half a turn, and do the opposite direction to the other side by half a turn also. E.g. If the front left lifts early, unscrew the rear left collar half a turn, and tighten the rear right collar half a turn.
- Repeat the process until you have both wheels spinning at very close to the same time.
- Swap the front wheels to the back, and back to the front and repeat the process on the opposite end of the car. It doesn't matter which end you start!
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